I wanted to use a Daily Express like headline for a story about food (that’s right, food) that has many different angles. It begins and ends with Frank Bruni, the New York Times food critic, taking a culinary tour of Scotland. Bruni, arguably the preeminent food critic in North America, anonymously visits restaurants and can ensure their success or failure with some poignant, some times merciless, but always well chosen words. Before we get into the crux of the issue, please click on this link to see a multimedia synopsis of his NYT review. (Trust me, it really is worth 3 minutes of your time).
The ISSUE behind the jump…..
If you know Scotland, as I do, you know that the Scottish people are fiercely proud of their nation and all that encompasses it. From the time that they stood with pitchforks against a battle-tried Roman army until today, a Scot would surely get in a dust-up with you if you had a bad word to say about their country. I wrote a post sometime ago about the 10 reasons (of many) that I love Scotland (part 1, part 2) but do you think my Scottish friends focus on that? Nope. They always like to refer to the post I did about 3 things I dislike about Scotland. One of those things is the food. And it’s surprising. It’s surprising because the country has a wealth of fresh ingredients on the protein and veg sides. Admittedly, the food is better now than it was 32 years ago when I first visited Scotland but I think you probably could say that about most places. When I make this argument my friends accuse me of being a food snob but I assure you that you don’t get to look like me by being picky.
Frank Bruni. Yes, Frank Bruni.
Bruni correctly points out that the ingredients are wonderful, fresh and appealing. He even goes on to say that Three Chimneys in Skye is the French Laundry (one of the United State’s most acclaimed restaurants) of Scotland. High praise indeed. While Bruni is not as impressed by the other two restaurants he visited, 2 Quail and Summer Isles, all kind words are soon forgotten with one glaring faux pas in the eyes of Scotland. (See if you can guess his miscue by watching the multimedia presentation before hitting the next tab.)
Not content to let a compliment stand on it’s own, Bruni gives a stinging backhand slap, not necessarily to the Summer Isles restaurant but to Scotland as a whole by saying,
…the beef carpaccio, while lovely, you wondered why you were having it in Scotland, a country not particularly associated with fine beef.
Get out the pitchforks. Those are fighting words! Judging food is a matter of opinion but in this instance Bruni makes a declarative statement that just isn’t true. Scotland is known for its fine beef. I would agree that they don’t always do great things with their fine beef but it is known the world over. While Black Angus cattle originated in Scotland, they have been imported to the United States, Canada, Argentina, Europe and other places. When Americans dine in Scotland, they cannot get over how different their steaks taste compared to those they have at home. There are three reasons for this. One, beef is not aged as long in Scotland, two, Scotland’s cattle are not fed corn (huge taste difference as a result), and finally, when steak is served in Scotland it is usually drowning under a bucket full of unidentifiable sauce. Sorry. It’s true, generally. (Always, always, always order all of your meals with the sauce on the side in all of the UK)
In the past week, Bruni’s review of the culinary experience in Scotland has been skewered by the local papers for that one remark. It just goes to prove that you can say 10 good things but you will always be remembered by your one misstatement. If I were Frank Bruni, the next time I visit Scotland I would have the Roman & English army in tow. At least he’d have a chance.
Bruni’s entire review can be read here.
Possibly Related Posts:
- Back from St Andrews But Not Really
- Aye Wonder Pre-Flight
- St Andrews in All Its Glory
- Week 27 – 5 x 5
- Dum Spiro Spero*
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